This is a private letter (18-12-1699) from the early Lothian antiquarian, Robert Sibbald to his up-and-coming (and now far more famous) Welsh friend and fellow-antiquarian, Edward Lhuyd. Sibbald and Lhuyd shared a passion for the history of The Old North of the ancient Britons, and were also early speculators on the meaning of The Book of Aneirin and its Gododdin poems. The main theme of Sibbald's letter is, of course, the surviving remnants and associated monuments of the Antonine Wall. But at the same time, it is an important early survey of several archaeological sites from a local boy's perspective — in fact, it reads as a bit of a guide for the foreign tourist.
The tour begins in the Roman fort at Cramond, moving south to the Catstane and across to Huly Hill at Newbridge (which stone circle seems to have had more surviving stones that it does today). Moving back north, when we arrive at Abercorn Castle, its ruins are still standing. From here, the tour take us to the eastern-most fort of the Roman wall at Kinneil — "the penveltun and penvahel of Beda" (ie. the Venerable Bede). But perhaps oddly, he then takes us back south from the wall to his own estate centred on Kipps Castle in the Bathgate Hills. Here, he tells us that what we now know as the Druid's Altar on his estate used to have the alternative title of "the cloven stones" — perhaps with a hint of the cloven-hoofed one, or even devil-worship / witchcraft folklore of the kind surrounding other stone monuments in that area. There is also an ambiguous reference to "the round range of stones ... close by it" — perhaps Cairnpapple, perhaps not. One way or the other, he certainly ignores Cairnpapple entirely when he mentions the famous Hilderston Silver Mines at the hill's foot. Perhaps the reference is to a lost stone circle or ruined cairn somewhere around Kipps, or simply a mis-identified natural feature? Regardless, before leaving his own area, he guides us to the Refuge Stane at Witchcraigs, with its "Hierusalem Cross".
It's on page 6 that we finally return to the Antonine Wall, leaving modern Lothian per se. And it's here that we find Sibbald's famous reference to the mysterious Roman structure now lost, but still known as "Arthur's oven" (aka "Arthur's O'en"). Sibbald clearly states that it lies close to the old mansion on Stenhousemuir ("Stennis his house"). He also reveals that there are inscriptions on the monument: "Ciphers and numbers and what else you meet remarkable there" — including the symbol of "a spear High upon the north east side of the door". After following the Roman wall to the west, we return at page 11 to a fuller and architectural description of "Arthur's oven", which included three Roman eagles, and previously had an iron gate — the removal of which seems to have brought a curse on the house of the thieves!
Overall, this modest letter to a curious friend turns out to be a crucial document for modern archaeologists and historians of Lothian, and beyond. It is hoped that this new edition will encourage further study of Sibbald's work, and begin to rescue it from the obscurity that has been its undeserved fate to date. Notes on my transcription sources are given at the end of the text.
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[ Letter to Edward Lhuyd from Robert Sibbald, Kipps, 18th Dec. 1699 ]
Sir, — You may first go from this to Crawmond Town and there you'l see the Roman Alter and the Laird or Lady may shew you a Roman medal in Gold, (if I remember well) of Antoninus Pius. Beda sayeth that beyond where the wall reach'd they had stations for their ships and by the stone with inscriptions and what was found here I conjecture this was one for the smaller vessels, which was then most used.
From that you go to Over Cramond belonging to Mr Mackenzie where you'l see another stone with an inscription. I was told there was another found upon the Hill Gray-Cruik in the neighbourhood but I never saw it you may inquire at the people there about.
Then you go towards Cramond Bridge and cross it and about a quarter of a mile upon the side of the High way to the South ferry there are som urns of a square figure to be seen where the Ground is cut down (upon the East side) for enlarging the way: these consist
of 4 square stones of a foot diameter, one below, and one each side, and one for a cover, and the face to the west open: some report there was some old coins found there. At the bridge you may be inform'd where the cats stone is and goe to it, and from that you go to Kirklestown, and from there you may pass the water to the South side: and go to new Liston for betwixt it and Inglishtown was the 2 stones in my Garden found and I was told, there was a third built in the wall of some of the Tenents Houses a little to the west of Inglistown.
From this you go up to the High way which Leadeth to the new Bridge and upon the side of that within a quarter of mile of the Bridge you meet first with the High obeliske and about a musket shot to the west of't upon the other side you meet with the Tumulus or Burrough with some stones standing and some fallen around it.
Then you cross the Bridge again and there's a way from the Bridge a little above new Liston will take you to Wontbadge, from that you are inform'd of the streight way to the Castle of Abercorn: and upon the South side
of the Hill upon which the castle standeth, you will find a deep and broad ditch which I take to have been some part of the wall drawn eastward.
From this you go to the Binns to Generall Dalzell's house and about a muskett shott below it you come to Blackness Castle.
Betwixt Binns and Cariddin a little south is Walton with a Burrow at it, it's the penveltun and penvahel of Beda.
From that the wall runs to Cairidin where a Vespasian in Gold was found (which I saw), some urns were found in the garden and there is built in the new building a stone with the figure of an eagle found there.
Some of the people thereabout will guide you to the vestiges of the wall which runn a little above Cuff about pans, Bridgenose, Grang, and so along to Kineil Duke Hamilton's house it runn through the wood you go through the village of Kineill to Inneraven where there are the vestiges of some old building probably the Roman fort you would view it narrowly.
Then you cross the water of Avon there and strike up the way to Kalendar where you meet it within the Inclosure near to the High way to Falkirk which is hard by.
But from Kineil you may go by the High-way southward to the City of Linlithgow a mile and some more from that still southward an ascent to the Kipps where you will see the ancient alter at the end of my Inclosure (the people call it the cloven stones), they are upon the east march of my grounds: and the round range of stones is close by it: a little to the north you will see the vestiges of a camp upon the Hill Cockle roof: and a little to the west of it two camps an ulter and inner camp upon the Bondba Hill: upon the north side of Lochcoat Loch.
Upon the south side in the Hill bewest Lochcoat house is a Large carn of stones.
At the Kipps standing upon the Hill streight out fra the House with your face to the House you will find an Echo will answer some twelve syllables from 3 distant places: and if you turn your face to the Lough you will find a circular echo answer.
You may go in to the House of Kipps and call for Mr Olipthant or his wife (if he be not at home) give my service to them they will shew you the house: and you may refresh you there or at the Tenents William Younger his house, he will either go along with you himself, or furnish you with a servant for your Guide to the silver mines a mile south from my house: upon the way to it you may search in the Kipps burn for marcasites Hoematites and such like are sometimes found there: and then you will strike up to the High way to Bathgate: and there you will see some stones upon a little rising ground with the Hierusalem Cross upon them all the marchstones of the Barony of Torphuichen are such and so mark'd for 'twas an Asyly or Gyrth as we call it.
From that you go forward toward the open betwixt the Hills and so you come to the silver mines where you will find Heaps of the sparr with some metall in them and the people who live in the houses hard by will shew you the Adites and the smelting house and inform you of them, they are Quarriers and work in the Limestone Quarries
hard by! where you may meet with some stalagmites your Guide will Guide you over the Hills southward to the Limestone Quarries in Bathgate Hills where Dr Balfour and I found the Pectunculites the entrochi and the fasciculus Tubulosus and such like.
From this you may return back to my Tenents house and They will guide you to the way to Linlithgow Bridge and then you are upon the High way to Kalendar and Falkirk from thence you go to Duny pace where you see the Duni or Tumuli pacis and east from it Camelon or a Roman garison and opposite to it the other side of Carron ædes Termini or Arthur's oven where at Stennis his house or village you may gett a Ladder and carrying a Link with you, you make take copy of the decussate Ciphers and numbers and what else you meet remarkable there (the ciphers are a spear High upon the north east side of the door.
At Falkirk you will find a Guide to Bony water upon the Tract of the wall, and so to Kastlekary and Cumernald and then to Bankyce Kirkintillo (by the way near Kilsyth I am told there are some stones with Inscriptions and at Miniabrych that which I shall shew in Scaligers commentary upon the chronicon Eusebij) fra Kirkintillo to Cadyr and then
the Tract is mentioned afterwards below this.
At Comernald or near to it are inscriptions, Forts and camps and their pots and other antiquities.
Besides the Rampire and ditch with the Rounds, all about it had many square fortifications, in form of a Roman camp. From Blackness to Kinneill a fort, at Innerevin a fort, at Langton a myle be east Falkirk a fort, at the Rowentree Burn-head, at Westercowden above Helens chappell at Croyhill at Cailliby pest the Kirkwood over against Croyhill, the top of the Barrhill a great one, at Balcastle over against the Barrhills at Achindowy, at Kirntillo, at east Calder, at Hiltown, at Calder, at Simmerstone, and over Kelvin Kiver: at Carrestoun, at Achterbinny, at the rockhill, over against the Westerwood, at Bankiros over minny against Castlekarry at Dunglasse.
The mount from Seabeigh is called Caledome hill a fort near the Rowentree burn, half a mile from the Seabeigh, (this betwixt Falkirk and the water of Bony) from that to the stony hill a castle bewest upon the south side of Grahams dike, another at the west side of the Kalendour house, the dike call'd Graham's dike, from
the Kalendar house the dike runneth a little east, and then strikes down upon the north side of the Gallowsyke then it runneth streight to the mumrells, from whence it goeth to the cadger bray and runs down to milnhill and fra thence runs up the Hill call'd the Hill and thence it runs down to the water of Even and crosseth there and goeth up to Innereven where there hath been a fort.
In regard that these last places mentioned Lying east from Falkirk and round it and bewest it are not so distinctly marked in the propper places it will be fitt you inform yourself well at Innerevin and the neighbour places upon the Embouchear of Evenwater: and at Falkirk you must take a guide who can best guide you thereabouts.
The following notes direct you from Dumbarton back to Seabeigh a little beyond Falkirk.
Dunbarton a great fort half a mile to the castle.
From thence a mile to the foot of Diniburk Hill (eastward) a fort, a mile to Dunglass a fort.
From that a mile to Chappell hill above the Town of Kirkpadrick a fort.
from thence a mile over Cressak water at Duntother miln to Golden hill a great fort towards its south side.
from thence a large mile over Gladden Hill and Hulcheson Hill and the Peills Glen
on castle hill a fort.
from thence over the mossefald hill of Led Camelmok by the new Kirk of Kirkpadrick a mile the Hay hill a fort.
From thence a mile over Fergisons moor, over Bullay hill, mutican hill to Summerston a Fort.
2 mile from thence crossing Celvin water at the steps of Balmilly and going through that town to Hiltoun of calder.
From thence a mile to Easter Calder.
From thence over park burn a mile to Kirkintillo, at Kirkintillo a great fort.
A mile to Achindery a great fort.
Cross Chirsa burn half a mile and from thence a large mile to Barr hill a great fort.
A Large mile to the East side of this Croyhill a fort.
Along the Dillator (or Donater) a mile to the Westerwood a great Fort.
Be south the Nedderwood a quarter of a mile a little fort.
from thence a mile to Castlecarry a great fort.
from thence a mile to the west end of Seabeigh wood a fort.
from thence a mile to St Helens Chappell to the south west.
about ¼ mile a great fort at the East end of Seabeggwood.
Indefinite places.
Ach. cockinge house.
Antonin. pius. II. Legion XXII.
Dunardbrugh.
Craigleeth, Freeland.
Chappel: hill Duglassthorn.
Vilula, Camerogh.
Dutother Mill.
The new Kirk of Kirkpatrick down towards burn to Hay Hill a fort.
Over Keraston moore.
Over Bullay hills and Militon hill. to Sunvetle thorn a mile and a half. At Calder house a Longstone.
Leg. II. Aug. victrix.
Long trees oak taken out of the via militaris near that place.
Kirk patrick hill.
Dunglas ¼ Kirkpatrick, the old Kirk of Kilpatrick.
other side of Clyde Ersbyne Askmani.
Other indefinite places.
Dumbuck, miln of Cahown and north archintowy.
C. B. Dunarin houses, spittle houses, and burn, Gaburn houses chappill hill a fort, Kirkpatrick, Sandyfoord, Carleith, Duntother mill of Cressak water a mile from Kirkpatrick east.
Golden Hill a great fort Counstay and Cladden hill. Hucheson burn. Achin-
bary a mile Hucheson hill, peil: Glen, Achinbernart castle, castle hill. The thorn of Easter Leadcamerock, on the Moss Fald hill of Led Camenth a fort.
I marked the places that you may see partly the old names of places with uc and partly they may be marks to direct you to the tract of the wall and forts for that they seem to be in its neighbour-head.
Dimensions of Arthur's oven.
The breath of the door is ane ell and 3 quarters, the height is 2 ells and three quarters, and ane nail, Breadth of the top is 3 ells and a half ell and half quarter, wydness within is 20 ells and ane quarter wydeness without 27 ells and half ell half quarter and ane naile.
Within the oven above the door there are like 3 eagles and above that there's ane window to the East and it is said that of old the oven was so narrow in the top that an ordinary Girdell (for baking bread) would have covered the same. It had an Iron gate which the Monteiths of Cars took away and it was observ'd the Estate went from them soon after.
The thickness of the wall at the foot thereof is five quarters except ane inch and a half and at the top three quarters and an half.
When I was last there I saw in the inner north east side a spear high from the ground some charecters like numbers
which I could not distinctly read but I conjecture it may be the measure of the length of the wall for there was not so many Legions in the Island as the numbers seem to mount to.
A torch lighted and a Ladder might make you read them, at least take them off just as they stand.
Sent to Dr Sibbald from Bathgate Hills near Linlithgow
Dec. 18. 99.
1. Ostreites major etc. converted to spar.
2. Pectunculites minor amphioris retiticulatus. The Bottom of this is so lapsd that no shell is found of this form. There was but one good specimen in the paper.
3. Entrochus.
4. Alcyonium fossile striatum.
5. Fungites instar plectri gallinacei, major.
6. Pectunculites aotis vulgatior lacuna in dorso insign. Distorted.
7. Fasciculus mineralis though perhaps it scarce differs from the fourth.
8. Lithostrotion Tub. ult. Lithoph. Brit. sed minus elegans.
9. An fragmentum cujusdam Pinæ fossilis.
10. Neritites major. ij. Terebratula è minimis: 12.
This digital transcription and edition is Copyright © CyberScotia 2009, all rights reserved. Text transcribed from: F.J. Haverfield, & George MacDonald, "Sir Robert Sibbald's 'Directions for his honoured friend Mr Llwyd how to Trace and Remarke the Vestiges of the Roman Wall betwixt Forth and Clyde.'" in Proceedings of the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland, Vol.44, 1910, pp.319-327. Edition by Haverfield & MacDonald from the Manuscript Copy in Bodleian Library MS. Carte 269, folio 129 verso - 135 recto, Summary Catalogue No.: 10714.